Recovery and Beyond........

So it seems Sherren has strained her Medial Collateral Ligament in her left knee. In part to having weak quadriceps and no doubt in part to the tough terrain experienced along the way. Remedy is rest and anti-inflammatories, plus quad strengthening exercises. Recovery is estimated between 1 to 8 weeks. Hopefully it's sooner rather than later but we won't continue till she is 100%. And to be fair, I have also had some discomfort in my ankles at the Superior Extensor Retinaculum ligaments. I blame this on the metal road walking (being my least favourite and hardest on my body), so I am too enjoying the rest.

We just spent the weekend down in Turangi/Taupo and crossed paths with the trail in a few places on the way. Already longing to get back on it we felt it necessary to stop at National Park pub for a beer and can confirm we'll be stopping again as we pass through on foot in the weeks to come. The Speights triple hop being my favourite.

It's beautiful country down there and so open and different than the under canopy bush walking experienced thus far.

Back north again and so as to not miss out too much, we spent the day walking Auckland and taking in the sites from Devonport to One Tree Hill without packs (certainly easier). I grew up here, so although nothing new for me it was certainly nice to revisit and some lovely views of Auckland for Sherren.

(N)one Tree Hill. 

Devonport. 

Rangitoto from North Head. 

Sherren at North Head. 

The City of Sails. 

The Hunua Ranges

Cossey track has a slip, so I headed into the Hunua Ranges up Moumoukai Rd. There was a slip at Opua Rd too and the gate was locked. So walking round the corner saw the entry to the Wairoa loop track via the swing bridge track and entered there. Starting out with a pulse raising climb, in part due to the beers I've been consuming while Sherren recovers.

The camps up here are easy to find as you walk through one of them (the notes made it sound difficult due to the detail they provide). But unless you're through hiking there's no need to camp as you'll get through in a day.

About the last km before the Mangatawhiri track there were 16 possums decomposing in various places. Not sure if they had been shot and left or if they had been poisoned. There is a 1080 poison drop being voted through the council that will close the ranges for 3 months next summer but rangers may be hand dropping in the area.

Into the Mangatawhiri track there's a few signs of hunters (empty amo boxes left) and pigs (rooting) so take care and wear your hi-viz if you have one.  There was also signs of the lone Holy Cow that we followed through the Raetea and Morepork sections. Has anyone else seen these Holy Cow tracks or am I loosing it?

In keeping with the TA experience the Hunuas offered me a bit of rain, a few fallen trees and although not muddy, a little slippery in the wet. On a whole though, an easy section and I only swore twice compared to the relentless obscenity I exposed Sherren to in Raetea and Herekino.

Wairoa Dam

Brilliant facilities here for cleaning your boots. 

The North Islands Infamous Supple Jack (no chance of straying off trail here!)

At this point the trail detours from the GPS and map files. Just follow the markers and you eventually marry up again. 

Glad this bridge was here. The river was about chest deep this day. 

The next day I took Sherren to Hunua Falls and we did the 3 hour loop to Cossey’s dam and back. It’s pretty much a footpath on this section and easy going. Sherren’s knee was fine with a brace on, so looking good for that speedy recovery.

Edited myself out for not smiling. 

Part of the trail still closed due to slip. 

Hmmm. Even Christians Vandalise. The way, the truth and the........,,

Not quite trusting the knee yet. 

On the technology side. I picked up an iPhone charger in the city the other day and the battery power and stability seems to have been restored. Pretty happy with that and can only admit if you buy cheap crap to save a buck, you’ll just end up replacing it with the real deal in the end. Buy a product that can guarantee it’s efficacy and save yourself the headache.

Off Trail for Repairs and Beers

Trail Notes Day 14-18

The opening 2 weeks has been pretty harsh and as a result I think we've lost sight of the experience we'd like to have. After a little chat to one's self, the clock is reset. Time to look at the bright side!

I'm the type of person who likes to analyse all the going ons around me just for the shit and a giggle of finding some sort of pattern (or not as is often the case)

We've hitched road sections 3 times now and each time we've been picked up by a local who isn't even going our way. I've found these acts of kindness quite remarkable and moving. As for the type of car that will pick you up, we certainly know when not to bother. Although we had a 2 seater Celica stop today (with 2 people in it). They said wait here and they went and got their bigger car.

Out of towners on posh weekends away don't even make eye contact. Like they're stepping over a homeless person asking for change.

Farmers on the other hand give you a big wave and smile the drive past. Truckies give a bro brow but ain't stopping their rig for no-one (especially on this hill).

No-one has been past in horse and cart yet!

Sherren

I've really enjoyed today's walk through the river, it was mostly mid calf height but there were a few times it was getting close to the nether regions!  The scenery was pretty, the sounds of the water moving and sunshine dapples really beautiful.  Didn't see any fish, which I'm quite happy about (I'd have had to have got out, they always eat me).

We stopped at a little DOC shelter where we cooked spaghetti tomato sauce with broccoli and mushrooms, herbs and nutritional yeast, scrummy  (promise we are eating well mum).

Paul (France) arrived after we had eaten, he is walking alone and left on the 2nd of October so is setting a good pace, it was nice to compare kit and stories, we hated the same bits :-)

Papakauri Stream

Day 15

Today was another killer. Mentally and physically gruelling.

Started out with the tent wet through. So just packed it away and hoped I didn't notice the added weight. Was a decent walk out of the Russell Track but then hit the deserted roads for about 3 hours before we got a lift the last few km. A Belgian guy, his Papua New Guinean wife and their daughter. Then another hard slog of metal roads before getting to the bush track.

Ran into Adam heading north earlier and he told us this would be a difficult steep and muddy track and that it was. Thankfully nowhere near as bad as Herekino and Raetea.

Out the other side were some beautiful views of bays and islands and some very exclusive properties (if you got a few spare million this could be the place for you). It was getting late and we were looking for a ride out to a DOC camp for the night, only one car went past, he was full of surf boards so couldn't fit us... Laughingly about 10 mins later I said "there's that car" it was below us travelling in the opposite direction "god that's some winding road", but nope, he had gone home emptied the car and come back for us.  

Amazing hospitality here, the husband and wife who look after the site kindly offered to share their macaroni cheese, I thought about it for a few minutes but had to decline, the difficult thing about being vegan.

The hospitality for complete strangers is overwhelming.

May hang out here an extra day as we probably won't be able to walk much tomorrow anyway. Having one of those Danny Glover moments (I'm too old for this shit!)

Food is running low-ish, with 2 days left till we have to resupply. Although I had a mishap and spilt half my methylated spirits in the grass while making dinner. Just hoping it'll last the 2 days. Otherwise we'll be eating raw oats with water (yummy)!

Sherren

My left knee ouch .... Need to practice ahimsa.

Stars are looking awesome tonight and going to sleep to the sound of crashing waves.

Day 16

Lazy day laying among the clover in the sun to the hum of honey bees.

Had a tiny walk along the lovely quiet cove next to the camp, my knee is incredibly sore, just taking 400mg of ibroprofen today as opposed to the 1000mg I've needed when walking.  We have hatched a plan which doesn't fit with the TA country long walk but our well-being is so much more important. We are going to walk/hitch our way to Whangarei then go straight on to Auckland, probably on the bus.  Taking the walking easy so as to give our bodies time to repair. And hope to pick up the track again from there.

In Auckland we need to try and sort out one of our Zor Nemo mattresses,  the bonding has broken down causing a hernia! Bought in the uk so we will be testing their customer service skills to get us a new one here in NZ.

Day 17

We were planning on heading out over the bush track to Matapouri this morning and hoping to hitch to Whangarei as this road is busier but Lance and Ngaire at the DOC camp had phoned around the community to see if anyone was heading to town. As we were packing Lance turned up to say be ready in 10 we got you a ride. Next thing Jeff and Betty Carson turn up.

The hospitality in these communities is really beyond belief. Perhaps in part to my London living for 15 years and not even knowing my neighbours.

We got into Whangarei so early we went direct to the bus station and got the bus to Auckland, then train to Pukekohe. Currently staying south of the Hunua Ranges at my fathers.

We figure once Sherren's knee eases up we can do the Auckland day tracks at our leisure and as a tester once she's better we'll give Hunua a go before resuming the rest of the trail. Although we do have a couple of plan B's up our sleeves.

I'm missing the trail already (even the shitty muddy bits), I especially love the wild camping without any other souls in sight. But we'll be back soon enough.

Day 18

We slept in till 6:30 but didn't get up till 7:30 for a bit of yoga.

Spent the morning maintaining, cleaning and drying out our gear ready for the next section. Think I'll have a few beers till then and maybe think about reviewing a bit of gear.

The Wet and Wintery North

Day 7

Up at 6 we checked the weather and have moderate winds and scattered showers for the next 10 day, so with that being the best on offer we got dropped at the Herekino track by Bob and Noeleen.

Sherren had a good start by making a wrong turn at 30 meters. Once back on course, we had a decent climb that tested the lung capacity. From there on in this track got gradually worse. There was a caution sign at the beginning due to the wet weather but this was getting a little ridiculous. We stopped counting in the end but would estimate there are over a hundred muddy bogs on the trail due to pig rooting and at least 40 fallen trees. Boots have virtually no traction due to the mud and even with poles you lose your footing frequently. Expect to get muddy and make your own track where possible, you'll save time and it will be safer.

Now this track is passable but extreme caution should be taken by anyone walking, especially nearer the Diggers Valley end (the last 500 meters in the bush took us an hour). On the up side the track was clearly and frequently marked.

We camped off the side of the track just before the end. It's cold and wet and we'll be expecting much the same all the way to Kerikeri. Hope summer kicks in soon.

Thai curry for dinner and an early night. We'll be ready to roll first light.

Sherren wins the competition with 3 falls to Glens 0!  No injuries.

Day 8

After a pretty crappy nights sleep stirring at every sound thinking the pigs were invading (after a couple of scares yesterday) woke to the dawn chorus, I heard the call of Tui bird, sounded like it was riding a clowns bike at the circus, squeak, squeak, honk. And the Morepork owl calling its own name or expressing its hunger.

The walking today started off on unmade roads, Sherren's knee was hurting and the whole thing getting her down, we walked these roads for 4 hours without seeing any traffic.  Then what should be the fun bit began ... More of yesterday less the pig damage.  It is tough going, very wet and muddy, lots of fallen trees and branches making very slow going. We were hoping to make it at least 2/3rds of the way to the end of this section (SH1).  Realising this was never going to happen we were keeping alert for tent space.  Finding a space right on the track at about 3.30pm we decided to play safe and stop, given the state of the trail the hopes of finding another would be slim. Plenty of water in the streams but there is nothing when you start getting up off the road so fill up early.

Sherren

I am having a bit of a day of reckoning, I really want to do my yoga every day but have only done it once in the last week.  My knee really hurts especially downhill.  I can't enjoy the views as I am constantly having to look at my feet. We said that we didn't want to forsake our daily Ashtanga practice and am now considering how we attack the trail with this in mind as at this rate it is impossible.

Cathartic realise over.

We are now in the zipped together sleeping bag, there are no signs of pigs here (fingers crossed) and hopefully we will get a good nights sleep.

Day 9

Made it out the bush with an extra day needed for Raetea. Tired, broken, cold and wet through. Tried hitching, no takers for a couple of mud soaked through hikers. Walked back to Raetea north side camp for the night. Little shelter so cooked dinner in the toilet at the camp while the rain drove down. Happy days!

The View from my Bathroom Window

Day 10

After another night of gale force gusts decided to skip the next section and head to Kerikeri. Just too dangerous with the fallen trees.

Got a quick ride this morning, literally the first car - The Salvation Army Bus - onward Christian soldiers and all that. They were awesome!

Making plans for the next sections now. I feel a little bad for skipping some but the weather and track has just been treacherous.

Sherren

I'm not feeling bad about skipping, after all we are meant to be enjoying this ...

We are now having a beer at the Central Backpackers on Cobham Road and planning a veggie and tofu stir fry and thinking of what it to do on our first wedding anniversary tomorrow?

As well as sorting out our onward journey.

Looking forward to yoga in the morning and the promise of some nice days of walking to come with a continuing yoga practice .... Yippee 

Met another tramper today, the first so far and it was nice to share muddy tales.

Day 11

Our first anniversary today and my 1 year vegan anniversary too.

We slept till late (7:30), drank tea and coffee for a bit then got stuck into some Ashtanga. Really nice practice and not feeling like we've lost any flexibility for the lack of practice. Still, it's a daily routine and that it should stay.

Planning to head off in the morning. Bit of rain on the cards but that hasn't stopped us yet.

Kericentral backpackers is a really chilled and easy going place to stay. Not too far off trail, right in town, close to supermarkets and decent rates too.

Tips

We left our snow baskets on our poles for walking 90 mile but these work pretty good in the soft mud too although not guaranteed as they may also end up bogged down with your boots.

Poles will help and hinder in similar proportion in the bush so you make the decision. I often threw mine ahead and crawled on hands and knees for the really difficult bits. 

Day 12

Up at 6:00 for another Ashtanga practice before breakfast, wash, pack and we were gone by 10:00. Figure that will be our usual departure time from here on in.

Waitangi forest wasn't as nice as I expected. Too many pines and forestry roads but the wetlands in between were nice and good views of the bay. Was also surprised to see a golf course and a bowls club at Waitangi given the cultural significance of the place. A big up yours to the locals if you ask me.

We had a nice walk down the waterfront and crossed over to Russell on the ferry then walked around to Orongo Bay Holiday Park. Slightly off trail but the cheaper option. Cool little camp ground with some cheeky Weka running havoc all over the place. One even took a liking to our tent pole while we were trying to put it up.

We'd been expecting rain all day but it held off till we got to camp. So we had a tea, cooked dinner then sat around as long as we could before putting the tent up. Now it looks like 2 days of solid rain. Hoping it doesn't interfere with tomorrow's leg as this has a river crossing and a 4km stream walk. Will wait till the morning to make the call.

Monument on Waitangi Track

View over The Bay

Day 13

Having an everything pisses me off moan day.

The iPhone won't hold charge. Shuts down in about 2 seconds after dipping below 50%. Suspect it is the 3rd party charger we have. Been trying to get an apple charger but just can't find an authorised seller anywhere. Not even the mobile phone shops are allowed to sell them. May have to wait till Auckland.

Absolutely pissing down all night and today. Weather forecast is a load of shit. Every day they say clear tomorrow and they update it to rain overnight. The Metservice actually says sun protection is required today. Not a bad as we have 4mm of rain per hour. Get to work on my rain tan. We've had 1 rain and wind free day in 13 which was in Kerikeri.

Yoga this morning was a little hard going on a cold stone floor at about 9 degrees. Just took it easy.

Will stroll into Russell a bit later and grab a beer. That should lift the mood a little. 

On a more positive note we started to walk to Russell (about 6km) when travelling in the other direction came 'Juice' who stopped picked us up and drove us back from where he'd came, what a lovely fella.  

it is now 7pm we are back at the tent after a couple of pints of beer and a huge packet of chips with salt, vinegar & ketchup… the rain has stopped and forecast is good for the next couple of days, barring any disasters we are good to go in the morning. 

Fill it Up Mate!

Cape to Ahipara and waiting out the Weather!

Day 1

After a week of flu like symptoms we both weren't sure if we'd make our start. However we decided to head to Ahipara and wait it out there should we feel too rough. Saturday came and we decided we were both well enough but figured we'd take some easy days to ease our bodies into it. First stop will be Twilight beach.

First of all thanks to our parents for getting us up to Cape Reinga and secondly to Noeleen and Bob for hosting us in Ahipara. 

We set off at 8:45 and got down to Te Werahe beach 45 minutes later. 3 hours before high tide and just in time to scramble the rocks in between sets. At the end of Te Werahe beach we had to wade mid thigh deep through the stream and tide to get off the beach. We took our boots and socks off for this as it was the only wet crossing we were expecting and didn't see the point in walking with wet feet. Coming over Te Kohatu point we found there had been significant rainfall and the surface was mostly slippery clay where we assume there had been sand. 3 marker posts have been uprooted here but there are loads so you won't have any doubts.

By the time we got to Twilight beach we were feeling the strain, the tide was high and sand soft making it hard work. We found the camp at the southern end. It's pretty posh if you ask me, with a gazebo, toilets and a water tank. With camp set up we got stuck into a Thai yellow curry, cup of tea and retired for the evening. Hope tomorrow sees better mileage as we hope to make the bluff. 

Day 2

Neither of us slept well, waking every 20 mins to change position, rained most of the night and was raining when the alarm went off so sheltered for an hour before breakie, using the long drop and heading off. The trail over Scott's head down to 90 mile beach is well marked, fab views of manuka bushes in flower across the hillsides, then amazing views of 90 mile beach and the steps and boardwalk, looked like a giant Chinese garden.  The beach walk is tough mentally and physically, It was drizzling when we arrived and it got steadily harder becoming driving rain needing waterproofs. I was having the longest internal dialogue with a bus or car driver justifying catching a lift. Needless to say we only saw one bus and car in convoy when we were about 4km from Waikanae Stream, they didn't stop and we'd decided to camp there, plenty of good water and we are both suffering from pain in our traps (the bits that hold your neck on)! Not all that impressed right now with the Ospre packs. They put too much weight in your shoulders and the weight in the hips tends to pinch at the back. Hope this is just a teething issue.

On approach to Waikanae stream we were greeted by a wild white horse. It ran out of the dunes and on to the beach to check us out before disappearing back into the seclusion of the dunes.

Tomorrow to Hukatere Lodge where I hope they have room for us and yes if a car stops we are going to take it for a little way, after all this is supposed to be fun and I've never driven on the beach before!

It's a good job yoga happens off the mat as well as on it! We haven't practiced any asana on the trail yet, we have plans for yin practice tomorrow evening and primary series when we wake at the lodge.

Day 3

Another wet night and the tent partially collapsed as we could only anchor into sand but we managed to stay dry. We awoke before dawn to find we were under siege from Mosquitos and Sandflies and opted to stay in until the sun rose. Most those little bastards left but a few stayed to sample the fresh meat on offer.

Once packed we set off and had to bush bash through the scrub, sometimes on hands and knees to get back to the beach (some shortcut that was). Once on the beach, we set a good pace doing about 5 km/h but as the tide came in and walking on soft sand, slowed to about 3 km/h and with a fierce head wind and baking sun we felt the energy drain from us. Hoping for that lift to help us make 40 km for the day we were only met with opposing traffic until we had done nearly 30 km. Then a diesel fitter happened along and we got a ride the last 8 - 10 km. Saved as plan b was to wild camp again but that just meant catching up the day after.

Now comfortably nestled in at Utea Park, Hukatere. This place is a little gem and would recommend it to any TA hiker. They have very basic cabins and a central kitchen/bathroom facility all for koha (that's donation)

Sites today are a young seal sunbathing on the beach, a dead dolphin and a large seal washed up. Apparently if you see dolphins or whales washed up you should report it to DOC or some other body as they will come collect and test for cause of death.

Saw some folks stuck in a sand dune. By the look of the car it wasn't 4WD but they took it up anyway.

Moans and groans are the pinching of my hip by my pack has bruised both sides but the traps are feeling a little better. Sherren's collar bones are bruised from hers. Feet are doing pretty good. No blisters yet and put that down to wearing gaiters. Most the leg muscles are aching but that goes with miles of soft sand. Sun burn kicked in a bit today. Even though it was cold and windy we got burnt and applied cream too late. Don't underestimate the sun here, even when cloudy you'll burn. We both copped it on the back of the knees. Ouch!

All in all feeling pretty good and hoping for an easier day tomorrow so we can fit some yoga in.

Day 4

Slept in till 7. 2 strong coffees for me and a tea for Sherren and we were straight into the yoga. Full primary less a few vinyasa. Felt pretty good considering. Bit of breakfast which I had to force down. Not had a very good appetite lately which make carrying all this food a bit laborious, then we were off again. Hitting the beach at low tide we were moving at about 6 km/h. Feeling the strain of yesterday's effort and the morning yoga we both hit the wall pretty quick, once again a strong wind in our faces, so strong there were a couple of people on a double buggy being pulled along the sand by kite. We were glad to reach the Top Ten Holiday park nice and early in the afternoon. 

We are the only ones on the lawn and after moving the tent thrice we have found a spot which is earthy enough for the tent pegs to hold and out of the wind.

Sherrens left knee is twinge-y today, quads and calfs are tight so must be pulling somewhere, one tiny blister otherwise fine and dandy.

Glens leg muscles are sore and the packs are still pulling on our shoulders.

Chatting with the lady in the office here she sees much worse than us, and much better too! Average is fine!

The beach was busier today, this end has a few vehicle access points so I guess it's easier to hop on and off, further north once your on it's at least an hour before you can get off, then the tide times become so much more important.  

Looking forward to seeing Bob and Noeleen tomorrow in Ahipara. 

Day 5

An early rise, straight on to the beach and with a not only surprisingly light wind but a tail wind too. We made it into Ahipara in a few hours. Chilling out now with dinner and a beer. Clothes washed and hanging out to dry, resupply package ready to fill the packs.

Sherren has a pain in her knee today and the weather is pretty grim with galeforce winds and torrential rain, so we'll wait it out here for an extra day and plan to head into Herekino Saturday morning (if the weather clears of course)

Tips for 90 mile!

Wear gaiters. They keep sand out your shoes and you're less likely to get blisters.

Mosquitos will bite you through your clothing. Wear rain shells around wild camps.

Filter/treat all stream water. Even after 3 days rain the water looked foamy, like it was contaminated with dairy farming effluent (very likely anywhere in NZ)

Sun block even if you think it's not needed. It's harsh even on cold day. Don't forget the back of your knees. This is the Southern Hemisphere, the sun will be on your back side (SOBO).

Bring 1 long right leg and 1 short left leg (SOBO) for the sloped beach walking.

At The Starting Line.

Our First Meal. 

Twilight Beach Campsite (*****)